These are quite common items to wear as it spins all the time that the engine is running. One option is to replace the entire tensioner assembly for about £50. If the tensioner still works then the much cheaper option is to just replace the bearing in the pulley for about £5-10....
I don't like the rectangular Reverse and Fog lights on Defenders. They fill with water, the connections corrode, the bulbs become loose and people stand on them when climbing up to roof racks....
The Salisbury axle on a Defender 110 was used through the Series era until 2002. It has a reputation of being very strong, but also not very DIY friendly, as the pinion is part of the axle casing and the diff carrier removed by needing to spread the axle casing apart. So to replace the differential you would effectively need an entire new axle....
If your vehicle is made post-2002 then the wiring loom will connect straight away. If you are putting the door on an earlier vehicle, it will require a bit of fiddling because the connectors are different and the newer door's wiper is negative switched whilst the older door's wiper is positive switched....
Having a dim-dip system in your car was a regulation that came about in the 80s in the UK, but is no longer necessary. The feature was fitted right into the Puma era. On UK Defenders, the two settings of the headlight switch will dim the headlights on the first setting (by routing power through a resistor under the RH front wing) and allow full power on the second....
When I bought the Land Rover, the gear lever was extremely sloppy in 5th and reverse. Sometimes it was hard even to engage reverse as pushing the lever to the right would almost push it into my leg....
There comes a time in a Land Rover's life where it starts to drop oil. My 1993 200tdi will have dropped litres of fluid in its lifetime, so this latest spill is nothing new....
This is one of those jobs that you pray you never have to do. But my Land Rover failed the MOT on the drop arm ball joint and not wanting to pay the garage to do it (what seemed a simple job) nor wanting to buy a whole new steering box, I decided to do it myself....
My headlight flashers have never worked. I've done lots of electrical work on the Land Rover, but I hate removing the steering column shroud. The first time I tried to remove it was on one of the expedition Defenders in Belize and was greated by a puff of smoke as something shorted....
I had a bit of a problem with my diff lock, in that it wouldn't engage. The transfer box lever would move to the left one "notch", but not into another notch by the time it hit the far side of the lever assembly....
My rear door has been slowy rattling, creaking and breaking more and more. The weight of a Wolf wheel on the back certainly doesn't help....
I knew it was coming. I just knew it. The clutch was squealing when the pedal was depressed and the bite point started changing with every press. I also knew that my gearbox might not be in the best shape since the piece of metal fell out of it a year ago....
Part of the problem with buying a Land Rover with no service history is that you feel you have to start doing everything; thus creating a history to ensure to yourself that it is being kept in the best condition possible. Of course doing a full service upon purchase of a knackered Defender won't make up for years of inadequate servicing...
In the 300Tdi engine, the water pump is located quite high in the engine (near the cylinder head). A relatively small loss of coolant can result in the pump sitting high and dry and the engine overheating....
Having cleaned the door down and sent it off to the body shop, it came back gleaming in Chawton White for the cost of £100. Putting the door back together is mostly straightforward...
I hate filling the gearbox. The transfer box is not so bad, but the gearbox (both the LT77 and R380) is annoying to fill as there is hardly any space to get above the filler hole to pour the oil in....
My reverse light hasn't been working. I only found this out recently whilst meeting a gritting lorry on a narrow lane at night. With the windows steamed up and putting it into reverse, there was nothing behind but darkness. I stuck my head out the window and half drove up the hedge trying to find the gateway i'd only just passed....
Wheel bearings have the habit of wearing out on expedition. The constant driving with dust and water creates a testing environment for your hub seals, so it is not uncommon to have a dodgy bearing or two on expedition. I think it's one of the mechanical things that is so crucial and fairly straightforward to fix, that it's worth getting some practice of it before you leave on expedition....
When you find yourself not being able to change gear without a clunk then you may have worn splines on your halfshafts and drive members, due to high mileage or heavy clutch changes. The halfshaft transmits power from the differential by engaging the splines of the drive member which bolts to the hub....
Oil leaks can be annoying, none more so than from the oil filter housing. It's characterised by a drip from the oil filter generally when running. It drips onto your diff, covers everything and there's a few things that can cause it....
A leaking Transfer box is not uncommon as there are some very common places it leaks from such as the bottom cover plate, intermediate shaft seal and font/rear output housing seal, but i've not seen one leaking from the PTO cover before....
This is one of the quickest and cheapest fixes you can do on a 300Tdi. The leak off pipes link the injectors to a spill rail (diagram label 7), which takes excess fuel back to the injection pump and then back to the tank. They are small braided hoses that can wear over time and can introduce air into the system....
Propshafts always seem quite a simple and accessible part to replace, being held with only 4 bolts each end, but I found it to be a knuckle bashing, space lacking job that seems to take longer than it should....
In my quest to make improvements to improve my 200Tdi Defender, I've replaced the 80's looking warning light panel on the dashboard with one from a Td5 model (1999 onwards)....
When I bought the door, it was green so I needed to get it resprayed the same white as my Land Rover. As such, I had to remove everything from it first. It took less than 30 minutes in total. Here's what I did....
